Wang Hongmei, a post-90s girl, only wears Hanfu made by herself on weekdays. Her ideal is to make Hanfu a daily attire.
"Hanfu didn't become popular in an instant, but those people wearing sheets grew up," some enthusiasts said when asked why they like to wear Hanfu.
Tmall's "2018 Hanfu Consumer Report" shows that the number of people buying Hanfu in 2018 increased by 92% compared with the previous year.
Hanfu, the collective name for the traditional clothing of the Han nationality, continued to develop and improve until the late Ming and early Qing dynasties. And now, it occupies an unexpected position in the lives of young people.
Hanfu has become a new trend?
Lou Ying, a 26-year-old education and scientific research practitioner, has only been involved in the Hanfu industry for more than a year, but her daily wear has been completely occupied by Hanfu. You can hardly see her wearing the "three-dimensional" ordinary people on weekdays. Clothes that will be worn. Opening her closet, she found it was full of all kinds of Hanfu. She felt that Jin Gui's Hanfu would be neatly folded and re-wrapped in the bag after cleaning.
Now, Lou Ying has purchased more than twenty sets of Hanfu. Lou Ying called up her membership level in a Taobao store. It showed that she had completed 16 transaction orders in this store and spent a total of 7,404.74 yuan. "There are too many rich people in the Hanfu circle. With my level of consumption, the Hanfu bought are basically cheap or mid-range. The most expensive set I have ever bought cost more than a thousand yuan. But a thousand The multi-piece Hanfu is just ordinary and mid-range."
Among the friends I know in Lou Ying, there are many who spend thousands of dollars on an out-of-print dress. Lai Lai, who is 21 years old but has been "in the trap" for more than 4 years, is such a "big boss" level figure in the Hanfu industry. Lai Lai is no longer satisfied with buying Hanfu suitable for daily wear. "Now whenever I hear that there is a Hanfu that is about to be out of print, or a relatively famous store has a new one, and I like it, I will buy it without hesitation. This year alone, I have bought fifteen sets of Hanfu, and the ones in my collection are out of print. There are already thirty or forty pieces of Hanfu." She told reporters that the most expensive set of Hanfu is about seven to eight thousand yuan.
Lou Ying is in Chengdu, a city at the center of the wave of Hanfu. Tmall's "2018 Hanfu Consumer Report" shows that,Among the top 10 cities that purchase the most Hanfu, Chengdu ranks first. Wearing Hanfu while walking here, she won't receive too many strange looks on the road.
Some Hanfu enthusiasts are not as happy as she is.
Chen Jiusheng is 16 years old and now owns five sets of Hanfu. Although her first set of Hanfu was chosen by her family with money from her family, the process was not simple. Initially, her family did not advise her to wear it out, thinking it was not suitable for the street. Chen Jiusheng sent many WeChat messages to his family. She said: Hanfu is not an ancient costume, nor a Tang suit, nor a fancy dress, but a culture. Chen Jiusheng was very angry when her family members said that Hanfu was an "imposter". She hoped that her family would accept this culture. Even if they didn't like it, it was because they didn't like the clothes themselves, not the behavior. Not long after, on the Qingming Festival, she and her mother went to play on the street and met many fellow students wearing Hanfu. Chen Jiusheng took the opportunity to convince her mother.
Hanfu appears more and more in graduation photography, travel photography, portrait photography and other works, and has even entered daily life.
Is Hanfu also becoming hard currency?
Xiao Sun, the owner of the Taobao store "Qing Ru Xu" Clothing, was a photographer before and took many photos of Hanfu styles for customers. He found that many Hanfu were too expensive, so he started buying cloth and making clothes, becoming a seller of affordable Hanfu.
Xiao Sun's feelings are not accidental. Although there are many Hanfu options available for 100-300 yuan now, "high-end consumption" of Hanfu is not uncommon.
A set of Hanfu named "Jiuxiao Bu Tiange" from the Taobao store "Jinse Clothing Store" costs 3,960 yuan to purchase, and the customer service claimed that in order to ensure quality, the store does not accept urgent orders, and the construction period of a set of clothes is 120 days ( Holidays are not included in the construction period).
On the official website of Minghuatang, a Hanfu trading platform, a set of Hanfu can cost more than 10,000 yuan, and it does not come with payment.
According to the official website announcement, as of July 19 this year, the construction period has been scheduled to late December 2020. More stores have limited edition signs.
Previously, Daoding Hanfu Element Life set a "duck egg blue" Taoist robe that was about to be put on the shelves as a limited sale, which aroused criticism from netizens: Is Hanfu also hungry for marketing?
Such a high price and long construction period do not represent the most perfect quality assurance. Last year, Minghuatang's Hanfu workmanship was frequently exposed to "overturning" phenomena. B station up owner "Shiyin" mentioned in a video uploaded on December 29, 2018, that he spent 5,450 yuan on the Xiangfeng Yun shoulder woven gold short jacket with jujube lion playing ball horse noodles at Minghuatang. After a long 10-month wait to get it, I found that the clothes had "exploded pleats" workmanship issues.
Among the high-end brands of Hanfu, Minghuatang is not the only one that has had problems. At the beginning of this year, "Tai Yunji Traditional Clothing" broke the news that "Han Ke Silk Road" plagiarized its imitation Confucian Mansion All Over Gold, which was put on the shelves around 2014. But then, CaiyunIt was once again revealed that there was a phenomenon of marginalization in the gold bottom of the collection.
Daoding Hanfu Element Life told reporters that there are generally three forms of Hanfu production: one is to make a reservation based on a deposit; the other is to estimate the market in advance and prepare small batches of goods; the third is to sell all goods in stock. Daoding implements the second method.
This is also the choice of many Hanfu enthusiasts. The waiting time won't be too long, and you can reconsider whether you really like it after seeing the buyer's show first.
"Duck egg green is a product that we estimate in advance after market estimates, determine a rough quantity in advance, and arrange the production plan in advance before deciding to sell it in limited quantities. A new style requires a lot of time, and it does not mean that the buyer has placed a deposit. We can start production as soon as we collect the data. According to the sales volume, we customize fabrics, position printing, cutting, embroidery, production, etc. Each step takes a lot of time."
Although Daoding, the store manager of Daoding Hanfu Element Life, explained this, there are still netizens who don’t buy it. The store posted a Weibo post on July 16 this year, explaining the limited edition of the new duck egg green Taoist robes, and decided that if the Weibo post was forwarded more than 1,000 times, the duck egg green Taoist robes would not be sold in limited quantities.
On the second-hand trading platform Xianyu, there are also many people selling Hanfu. The words "exit money" and "out of print" can be seen everywhere, and some merchants even propose a "guaranteed" purchase method. That is, if you want to buy a piece of clothing, you have to buy other non-best-selling items with it. If the former is one thousand yuan, the total price of the latter may reach six to seven hundred yuan.
Both local products and authentic products have their fans
Zhao Qiong made a joke because of Hanfu. In order to take pictures, she found a store on Taobao with high sales and low prices, and took a picture of a Hanfu. After wearing the clothes and going out, I took photos and posted them on social networking sites, only then did I realize that the Hanfu I wore was a "cotton product."
Since then, Zhao Qiong has paid more attention to the matching between Hanfu and culture. She found that on Baidu Hanfu Post Bar, people often happily uploaded photos wearing their favorite Hanfu, but they were criticized by netizens because they were local products.
In some fields, whether a person is willing to spend more money to buy genuine products is a magic weapon to test whether a person is in "true love". But for some Hanfu enthusiasts, local products and authentic products do not seem to be the highest standards for evaluating love.
Lou Ying’s first Hanfu only cost 198 yuan. Although compared with some Hanfu that fully respects traditional culture, this dress has been improved to be more everyday and not absolutely "authentic", but this dress opened the door to a new world of Hanfu for her. Although she knew about the existence of Hanfu before and saw people wearing it, it was only after she actually put on Hanfu that she began to actively learn all kinds of knowledge related to Hanfu.
"Understand that Hanfu generally does not refer only to the clothing of the Han Dynasty, but to the traditional clothing of the Han nation. It includes the dynasties from the time when the Yellow Emperor hung his clothes and ruled the world to the late Ming and early Qing Dynasties, among which Han and Tang were the mainstream; contact ArriveSkirts, shirt skirts, jackets, Song trousers, Ming-made jacket skirts, shirt skirts, horse-faced skirts...all kinds of styles. " Lou Ying said that she was sincerely happy to see that Hanfu has become more and more popular in recent years.
“Female Hanfu fans consume Hanfu mostly out of the pursuit of the classical aesthetics of Hanfu, while male Hanfu fans are influenced by more factors, including TV series, games, novels, etc., but male Hanfu fans pursue more of the aesthetics of Hanfu. Retrospection of tradition." Wang Xinyan of Southwest Jiaotong University wrote in "Exploring the Symbol Communication of Hanfu and Hanfu Fans".
When it comes to local products and genuine products, Lou Ying can talk about them all night long. Some local goods are of rough workmanship, and some are high imitations. Not all consumers can tell which one is authentic. And as everyone boycotts local products and supports genuine stores, the prices of genuine stores are getting higher and higher, and some merchants are becoming less and less careful.
"Design with your heart and make Hanfu with your feet." Lou Ying said that in order to increase sales, some businesses will use fabrics like curtain cloth to make clothes. Although this is genuine, so what?
Chen Jiusheng has another view. She told reporters that people who sell pangolins have a proper name: pangolin. "It's human nature to be greedy for cheap, but I don't agree with the behavior of pangolins."