According to the "Book of the Later Han·Yufu System", it is recorded that Hanfu "began from the Yellow Emperor and was prepared by Yao and Shun". The so-called "clothing system, deep clothing system, robe system and underskirt system" actually refers to the four basic forms of Hanfu. According to In our current terms, there are four basic styles of Hanfu.
"Yi Xici Xia" records: "The Yellow Emperor, Yao, and Shun hung down their clothes and ruled the world, taking over the universe."
The garment system is the oldest and most basic form in the Hanfu system, consisting of the upper garment and the lower garment. The tops are mostly cross-collared or straight-collared, usually reaching the waist or slightly longer, while the lower garments are similar to skirts, loose and long to the ground. This shape was very popular before the Han Dynasty and was the main style of daily wear by the ancients.
The development of clothing is closely related to the form of trousers at that time. Before the appearance of underwear, it had a very important function: covering people's private parts.
The trousers in the pre-Qin period were similar to our current crotchless trousers. There was a gap in the front and back. Therefore, the ancients needed to wear a "skirt" outside the trousers to cover their private parts.
The cutting of clothes is relatively simple. The top and bottom are cut separately and then sewn together. When wearing it, the skirt of the top is crossed on the chest, and the lower skirt is fixed around the waist. This design not only facilitates movement, but also shows elegance.
The colors, patterns and accessories of the clothes are very particular. In ancient societiesYes, different colors, patterns and accessories represent different identities and statuses. Therefore, clothing is not only a kind of clothing, but also a symbol of culture.
2. Deep clothing systemThe deep garment system is an evolution of the garment system, which is characterized by connecting the top and lower garment at the waist to form a whole. Deep clothing became popular during the Zhou Dynasty and gradually developed into a formal dress. The cutting of deep clothes is more complicated than that of clothes. The top and bottom skirt need to be cut separately and then sewn together to form an integrated style.
The lapel design of deep clothing is unique, usually with a cross collar or a straight collar. The cross-collar design allows the placket to cross and overlap on the chest, forming an elegant and dignified style; while the straight collar is more concise and elegant, highlighting the wearer's temperament and style. The design of the waist belt plays a role in fixing the body shape, making the deep garment more form-fitting when worn.
The hem of the deep garment is wide and reaches the ground. This design not only increases the layering and three-dimensionality of the deep garment, but also shows a solemn and elegant temperament. When walking, the wide hem swings with the steps, like a flowing picture, full of dynamic beauty.
The design of wide sleeves is another major feature of deep clothing. The wide sleeves flutter with the swing of the arms, giving people a light and elegant feeling. This design not only increases the beauty of deep clothing, but also reflects the ancients' yearning for nature and freedom.
【Shenyi of Zhou Dynasty】
In addition to the unique style and design, the color and pattern of deep clothing are also its charm. Different dynasties and periods have different aesthetic standards and fashion trends, so the colors and patterns of dark clothes also change accordingly. From simple and elegant monochrome to gorgeous and complex embroidery patterns, each color and pattern represents the aesthetic pursuit and cultural fashion of the society at that time.
The accessories of deep clothing are also one of its important components. Belts, jade pendants and other accessories not only play a decorative role, but also reflect the identity and status of the wearer. In ancient society, dark clothes were one of the main attires of officials and scholars, so the choice of accessories was also very particular. Exquisite belts and jade pendants not only highlight the wearer's distinguished status, but also add a layer of elegance to dark clothes.Adds a touch of luxury and elegance.
According to the "Five Classics of Justice", the clothes of Shenyi are connected and the quilt is deep, symbolizing the harmony and unity of heaven, earth and man. In ancient Chinese philosophy, heaven, earth, and man are regarded as the three most basic elements of the universe. They are interdependent and restrictive, and together constitute all things in the universe. The design of Shenyi cleverly integrates these three elements, reflecting the ancient Chinese's pursuit of harmonious coexistence of all things in the universe.
The design of each part of Shen Yi also has a profound meaning. The sleeves are wide at the base and the cuffs are tucked in, symbolizing the vastness of heaven and its inclusiveness of all things; the intersection of the neckline at right angles symbolizes the true squareness and stability. A straight seam on the back runs from top to bottom, symbolizing the integrity and selflessness of humanity; the flat hem symbolizes fairness and justice. These design elements not only make Shenyi unique in appearance, but also give it profound meaning in terms of cultural connotation.
In addition, Shenyi also embodies the ancient Chinese's unique understanding of time and space. The four pieces of cloth used on the upper garment symbolize the cycle of the four seasons of the year; the twelve pieces of cloth used on the lower garment symbolize the cycle of the twelve months of the year. This design not only makes the deep clothing more reasonable in structure, but also reflects the ancient Chinese people's understanding of the periodicity and regularity of time and space.
The robe system is another important form of Hanfu. Its characteristic is that the upper and lower garments are cut from one piece of cloth, with no seams in the middle and are naturally integrated. The robe was born in the pre-Qin period, became popular in the Sui and Tang dynasties, and gradually became one of the main costumes in later generations. There are many types of robes, such as round collar robes, straight robes, Taoist robes, etc. These robes were most popular in the Song Dynasty and Ming Dynasty.
The earliest robes referred to cotton underwear, and later evolved into robes worn outside, with floor-length or slightly shorter lengths. The skirt has a cross collar or a straight collar, and the waist is belted or tied to fix the body shape. The sleeves of robes can also be divided into wide sleeves and narrow sleeves. Different styles are suitable for different occasions and eras.
The colors, patterns and accessories of the robes are equally varied. In ancient society, robes were one of the main attires worn by officials and scholars, so their colors and patterns often represented the identity and status of the wearer.
Generally speaking, the colors of the robes of senior officials are relatively bright, such as red, purple, etc., to show their dignity; while the colors of the robes of lower-level officials are relatively simple, such as cyan, gray, etc. This practice of distinguishing official positions by the color of their robes was very common in ancient society.
Robes are also very versatile. In addition to being used as court attire for officials, it can also be used for daily wear, weddings and other important occasions. In the military, robes were also used as military uniforms. The design of the cotton lining inside can play a role in warmth and protection.
At the same time, robes were also one of the favorite costumes of literati. They often wrote poems and paintings on their robes to show their talents and aesthetics.
[Brown diamond-patterned Luodi "Xinqi embroidery" silk cotton robe with curved ribs unearthed from No. 1 Western Han Dynasty Tomb at Mawangdui, Changsha, Hunan]
4. Ru skirt systemThe underskirt system is a female clothing form in Hanfu, consisting of an upper undershirt and a lower skirt. The upper jacket is a short top, usually around the waist in length; the lower skirt is a long skirt, which is loose, comfortable and reaches the ground. Ru skirt became popular after the Han Dynasty and gradually developed into one of the main styles for women's daily wear.
The skirt of the skirt usually has a crossed collar or a straight collar, and the waist is belted to fix the body shape and show off the female curves. When wearing it, women usually tuck the upper skirt into the lower skirt to show a neat line. At the same time, the accessories for underskirts are also very rich and diverse, such as hair accessories, earrings, etc., which are important ways for women to show off their beauty and fashion.
【Han Dynasty Ruskirt】
In the Han Dynasty, under the popularity of deep clothing, the Ru skirt gradually came to prominence. The upper jacket of this period had a unique design, only reaching the waist, while the skirt was light and hanging, reaching the ground, forming a sharp contrast. The actual Ru skirt unearthed from the Mozuizi Han Tomb in Wuwei, Gansu Province is made of light blue silk, lined with silk cotton, and the sleeve ends are spliced with white silk, showing the gentleness and dignity of women in the Han Dynasty.
[Han Dynasty Ruqun unearthed from Mozuizi Han Tomb in Wuwei, Gansu]
During the Wei and Jin Dynasties, Ru skirts inherited the traditions of the Han Dynasty and incorporated new fashion elements. Most of the upper garments adopt a double-breasted design, and the collar and cuffs are decorated with colorful embroidery, which is exquisite. The waist is tied with a hug and a ribbon is tied outside to make the figure more graceful. The fabric of the lower skirt is rich and colorful, and the addition of lotus, honeysuckle and other patterns makes the skirt more gorgeous.
[Jinxi style unearthed from Bijiatan, Gansu’s sea of flowers in 2002]
During the Sui, Tang and Five Dynasties, the Ru skirt ushered in its glorious moment. The top is a short jacket, with half arms and a shawl, forming a unique clothing style at that time. In the Sui Dynasty, small-sleeved jackets were popular, while in the Tang Dynasty, the combination of small-sleeved short jackets and floor-length skirts has long been a favorite. After the prosperous Tang Dynasty, the clothes of aristocratic women turned to be wide and long, but the basic shape of the skirt remained unchanged.
At this time, the collars of undershirts varied, and the popularity of topless and large-sleeved shirts showed the openness and confidence of women in the prosperous Tang Dynasty. The lower skirt is mainly made of silk fabric, and is made of multiple pieces connected and sewn together. The skirt waist is lifted up and comes in bright and diverse colors. Pomegranate red skirts, bird skirts, bell skirts and other dresses are all dazzling and beautiful. It complements the short jacket and shawl, showing the grace, luxury and plump charm of women in the prosperous Tang Dynasty.
"China has clothes that carry the heaven and earth in its lapels." "It has great etiquette, so it is called Xia; it has the beauty of clothing and seals, so it is called Hua."
Chinese costumes are not just pieces of clothing or skirts. They are symbols of etiquette, cultural inheritance, and national pride. It can be said that every detail of Hanfu reflects the wisdom and ingenuity of the ancients and carries profound cultural heritage.
