The Song Dynasty, a dynasty that made great achievements in economy, science and technology, and culture, provided fertile soil for the development of Hanfu culture. Agriculture, shipbuilding, textiles and papermaking reached unprecedented heights, while the invention of gunpowder, compass and printing technology further promoted the spread and exchange of culture.
Clothing in the Song Dynasty is generally divided into two categories: official clothing and civilian clothing.
·Among official uniforms, court uniforms are used on important occasions such as court gatherings and sacrifices. They are mainly made of red clothes and red clothes, with clothes of different colors and textures, and corresponding crowns.
·Official uniforms are the regular uniforms worn by officials, with a round collar and large sleeves, a leather belt around the waist, a pompadour on the head, and leather shoes or silk and linen shoes on the feet. According to regulations, senior officials who are qualified to wear purple and crimson public uniforms must wear fish-shaped fish bags decorated with gold or silver.
·The folk costumes are mainly simple, but in fact the colors of folk costumes are rich and diverse and are not strictly restricted.
Women's clothing in the Song Dynasty developed on the basis of inheritance from the Han Dynasty. Generally, women wore coats, glutinous rice balls, shirts, backs, half-arms, skirts, trousers, etc. These costumes are short, long and thin, with narrow sleeves and skirts on the lower body. The colors are mainly red and purple, followed by yellow.
The style of the skirt in the Song Dynasty is similar to that in the Tang Dynasty, but there are also innovations. The decoration on the body is not complicated. It mainly adds a jade ring ornament on the ribbon worn in the middle of the waist. Its function is to hold down the skirt and make it move when walking. Or not fluttering in the wind during activities.
In the Song Dynasty, a kind of coat called 褙子 was also popular, which was characterized by long sleeves, long body, and open crotch under the arms. There are three types of collars: straight collar and double-breasted style, diagonal collar and cross-breasted style, and pan-collar and cross-breasted style. Straight collar is the most common type. Both diagonal collar and pan-collar styles are only worn by men in public clothes. , while women wear straight collars and double-breasted styles, housewives with higher status wear large-sleeved clothes, and maids and concubines often wear clothes with open underarms and crotch for easy walking.
With the passage of time, the length of the bra worn by women in the Song Dynasty gradually increased, developing into a standard style with sleeves larger than the shirt and as long as the skirt.
It is worth mentioning that the Hanfu of the Song Dynasty was innovative based on the inheritance of the Tang Dynasty, and the clothes were still worn by scholar-bureaucrats at home and as folk dresses. However, compared with the previous dynasty, Shenyi began to become active among the people again, and gradually tended to have a ritual status. Zhu Xi's family rituals stipulated a specification of deep clothing, which became Zhu Xi's deep clothing, which was characterized by wider sleeves. In addition, the way of wearing upper and lower skirts was also continued and developed in the Song Dynasty. The skirt waist was no longer fixed at the waist, but showed the slenderness of the legs. This style had a profound impact on the clothing of the Ming Dynasty.
In terms of crowns and hats, the Song Dynasty also made innovations on the basis of the previous dynasty. The pouf became square, and some new styles were introduced, such as the curved-wing pouf, the floral pouf, etc. At the same time, many celebrities also invented new scarves, such as Zhu Xi’s Zhuzi scarf, Su Dongpo’s Dongpo scarf, and Zhou Zi’s Zhouzi scarf.wait. In addition, in the Song Dynasty, the square heart-shaped collar also appeared as a clothing accessory, which was mainly used on dresses.
To sum up, the Hanfu culture of the Song Dynasty continued to innovate and develop on the basis of inheritance from the previous generation, showing unique characteristics of the times and cultural charm. These exquisite costumes not only reflect the wisdom and aesthetic concepts of the ancient Chinese people, but also provide valuable information for us to understand and study ancient history and culture today.
