This article mainly introduces these two issues to everyone:
1. The concept of underskirt
2. Does Qixixun exist?
As we all know, the so-called "Hanfu circle" has removed chest-high clothing again. I wrote two popular science articles, and the issues of chest-high and one-piece and two-piece styles were frequently mentioned in the comment section
First of all, what is an underskirt? "Shuowen" records: "Ru, short clothes, length at the knees." "Ji Zhuang Pian" notes: "Long clothes, the robe, from the bottom to the feet, short clothes, the ru, from the knees up."
Undershirt is just a general term for short jackets (subdivided into short undershirt and long undershirt). The long undershirt extends from the upper part of the thigh to between the knees. A single undercoat is sandwiched between a coat.
The underskirt is a common style of upper and lower garments.
The uniform of the little jade woman unearthed from the tomb of King Zhongshan in Pingshan, Hebei
This is the only garment with an upper skirt and a lower skirt that we have found with physical evidence.
According to research, this tomb should belong to the Zhongshan Kingdom during the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period. The upper body has narrow sleeves and a tight-fitting short skirt with a diagonal placket. The lower body has a long skirt with a checkered geometric pattern. The waist is tied with a belt. There are obvious welt decorations on the skirt, collar and sleeve edges. This is consistent with the skirt system of later generations. It can be seen from this that the skirt shape has appeared as early as the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, and is one of the main clothing styles worn by women in our country.
From the "New Tang Book·Five Elements Chronicles": "In the early days of Tianbao, nobles and scholars preferred to wear Hu clothes and hats, while ladies wore hairpins and hairpins, and their sleeves were narrow." It can be seen that under the influence of Hu clothes, "the sleeves are narrow" The "small" tight-fitting short jacket became one of the main features of the jacket in the early Tang Dynasty.
Murals on the Tomb of Princess Yongtai of Tang Dynasty
At this time, the upper jacket has been shortened and the lower skirt is lifted up to the chest. Therefore, the word "chest-length" refers to this style of undershirt in the Tang Dynasty. Those who are clamoring to be removed from the list do they think this structure is wrong, or do they think it cannot be called "chest-length"?
Through the first two articles, I finally discovered that the so-called delisting is caused by a circle of people who are "incomprehensible" and love to "take words for granted." If you haven’t studied the history of clothing, you may feel that you have learned Chinese well.
Returning to chest-length skirts, not all of them have small sleeves. During the Kaiyuan Tianbao period, the sleeves of chest-length skirts became wider and wider. The "Old Book of Tang" records that in the second year of Taihe, Emperor Wenzong of the Tang Dynasty announced that every time he met the right On this day, you are not allowed to insert hairpins and books, and you are not required to wear short and narrow clothes.
At this time, the average women's sleeves were four feet long...
For a time, wide sleeves became popular. In the sixth year of Taihe, Emperor Wenzong once again issued the "Tang Hui Yao", which stated that "the sleeves of the undershirt should not be more than one foot and five inches wide, the skirts made by women should not be more than five pairs wide, and the length of skirts should not be more than three inches long." But after coming out, many people complained. At this time, it can be seen in the "Chaoyuan Immortal Stick Picture" that this painting is a Taoist painting and not a fiction by a Northern Song Dynasty painter, which is more reliable. At the same time, you can also refer to "Picture of a Lady Waving a Fan".
As the sleeves become larger, the lower skirt also begins to widen, with more and more pairs. It is no longer as slender as the small-sleeved skirt. The hem is curved and touches the floor to cover the feet. Tang Yin's "Xiaoyouxian" "Eight Skirts of Clouds Breaking and Mingxia", the cloth made in the Tang Dynasty was one foot eight wide, one foot was ten inches, and one foot was about 30 centimeters today. Six pairs are 3.24 meters, and eight pairs are 4.32 meters.
The half-arm and Hufu of this period are worth mentioning, and a variety of collar types appeared