Clothing is a material expression of the culture of the times. As two adjacent dynasties, the Tang and Song dynasties had very different clothing styles.
The humanities and arts developed under the political background of "emphasis on literature and suppression of martial arts" had a very important impact on the changes in clothing. The clothing in the Song Dynasty had a very obvious trend of simplicity, pragmatism, elegance and advocating nature.
Today we will take stock of some classic styles of Song Dynasty clothing.
Song Dynasty women's clothing
褙子：
It is the most distinctive costume of the Song Dynasty. It is usually worn in the living room. We can see it in Zhifu. It is developed from the previous half-arm and mid-single forms.
It is also said that kuzi developed from the attire of maids. The important basis for this statement is that this kind of clothing has the function of "convenient and beneficial to the body". The style of the turban is characterized by the length of the garment reaching below the knees or directly to the feet, and the left and right armpits are sewn together with fabric at the front and back, making it flexible and not restrictive. The style makes this type of clothing very popular. There is a record in "History of the Song Dynasty·Yu Fu Zhi" that "if a woman is in the house, she will have the crown and the back".
The trousers are not only suitable for women to wear. With the continuous evolution and development, they have become a kind of clothing that can be worn by both men and women, regardless of high or low, regardless of culture and martial arts, and by both the government and the public. "History of the Song Dynasty·Yu Fu Zhi" says: Huachai Zhaiyi is a formal dress, and the back is for daily wear." Queens and ladies also wear it in informal occasions.
Recommendation index: ⭐️⭐️⭐
Reason for recommendation: comfortable and decent, the most cost-effective item.
Skirt:
Skirts in the Song Dynasty retained the style of the late Tang and Five Dynasties, with thousand-pleat and hundred-fold skirts becoming popular. This type of skirt is slender in style, paired with a short top, with a crossed collar and right hem, and narrow sleeves. "The skirt is slightly exposed with double laces" and "embroidered skirt with double laces" refers to women's skirts and belts.
The fashion trends in clothing were mostly influenced by the literati style at that time. The shapes were thin and realistic, and the colors were elegant and simple. The characteristics pursued were "thin, thin and long". There was no obvious difference in styles between civilian and aristocratic skirts, but the materials used were more important. It is high-end, and also uses natural vanilla, which can be called "ancient perfume".
Recommendation index: ⭐⭐⭐⭐⭐
Reason for recommendation: Temperamental outfit, elegant and generous
Large-sleeved shirt:
Most of them were worn by concubines and noble ladies, that is, the "overcoat" recorded in historical records. "History of the Song Dynasty·Yu Fu Zhi" records: "its regular clothes have long sleeves for the concubines." Later, it was broken out of the exclusive use of concubines and spread to the people and became aristocratic women's clothing. dress. As the name suggests, this type of clothing has wide sleeves, a crossed collar and waist, and is often decorated with exquisite embroidery and patterns, making it elegant and elegant.
Recommendation index: ⭐⭐⭐
Reason for recommendation: Lady’s dress is not suitable for ordinary people
Song Dynasty Men's Clothing
襕shirt:
It was the ceremonial dress worn by Confucian scholars who had passed the imperial examination, and it was also the court dress worn by literati and officials at that time. "History of the Song Dynasty·Yu Fu Zhi" records that "the gaiter shirt is made of white fine cloth, with a round collar and big sleeves, a horizontal gaiter as a robe, and a fold around the waist. Jinshi, Yuanzisheng, and students in prefectures and counties wear it."
The style is characterized by a round neck, the cuffs are larger than the armholes, and there is a horizontal gusset on the hem, so it is also called a round neck robe. The etiquette of "long shirt" and "襕" made the "long shirt" meet the aesthetic trend of clothing in the Song Dynasty and was recognized by literati and officials.
Recommendation index: ⭐⭐⭐⭐
Reason for recommendation: literati style, elegant
Fang Xinqu collared robe:
Officials of the Song DynastyThe square heart-shaped collar is a kind of neck accessory worn by emperors and officials in court uniforms. It is worn around the neck to prevent the collar from turning up. This kind of neckwear was used from the Han Dynasty to the Sui and Tang Dynasties, and then gradually disappeared. During the Song Dynasty, it was reused as a neckwear, and later became a uniform. This style that emphasized functionality and practicality also reflected the pragmatic principles of Song Dynasty clothing.
Recommendation index: ⭐⭐⭐
Reason for recommendation: solemn and generous, but only in the court hall.
Hand-collared robe:
This type of clothing comes in two forms. First, robes with straight collars and double lapels + robes with crossed collars on the right side often have the detached and elegant feel of Taoist robes, reflecting the influence of monk and Taoist culture on the aesthetics of literati and bureaucrats' clothing.
The portraits of Su Shi, the "idol" of the scholar-officials, appear in this kind of clothes, with a square barrel-shaped hat on his head called "Dongpo scarf".
There is also a cross-collared wide-sleeved robe, decorated with black piping, reflecting a plain and simple style, and equipped with a belt at the waist. When the belt is untied, it becomes casual clothes. "One coat and two clothes" are convenient for personal use. They are mostly worn by bureaucrats who live in seclusion.
Recommendation index: ⭐⭐⭐⭐
Reasons for recommendation: Leisure and convenience, literati temperament.
The clothing of the Song Dynasty developed a characteristic culture with unique style and elegant aesthetic taste. It also reflected all aspects of politics and society. It showed the overall effect of natural harmony, vivid taste and elegant aura, and has a very high historical and aesthetic research value. .
