Skirt cutting method
The undershirt is a form-fitting cross-collar short undershirt. The width is based on a person's bust size, and the length only exceeds the waist and does not reach the hips
The skirt is an encircled half-length skirt.
1. Judgment method of 襦
There are two common methods of cutting the collar. Because of the cross-collar, the front placket will overlap part of the fabric, and it is difficult for one piece of fabric to meet the required amount of front placket fabric. Therefore, these two common cutting methods use two pieces of cloth to form a jacket.
One is the back-middle breaking method (as shown in the picture)
The other is the front placket supplement method, that is, the suture line of the two pieces of cloth is on the right front placket. The advantage of this cutting method is that the seam is covered by the left placket and cannot be seen on the surface of the clothing..
The following is the method of breaking through the back center
Step 1: Before cutting, you must first master the following data: chest circumference, shoulder and sleeve length, back length, dress length, sleeve edge width, collar edge width, cuff stop, clothing hem stop, etc.
Bust:
Refers to the bust of clothing rather than the bust of the human body. It is equal to the human body's net bust + clothing looseness. Measure the net bust circumference of the human body by passing the soft ruler horizontally through the breast point (note that the soft tape should be moderately tight). The looseness of the clothes is determined by your own preferences. Generally speaking, a looseness of 4CM~6CM is a tight fit (suitable for comparison requirements) Tight-fitting middle coat or jacket worn alone), 8-10CM is considered a fitted type (can be worn alone or one or two pieces of clothing can be added inside), and above 14CM is considered a loose type, but this is for fabrics of general thickness. If If it is a thicker winter fabric or the inside is going to be quilted, the looseness should be increased depending on the thickness of the fabric based on each type. If it is not convenient to measure, you can refer to the net bust size of modern adult women: S type 76CM, M type 82CM, L type 88CM, XL type 96CM.
Shoulder sleeve length:
Measure from the nape of the neck (the cervical vertebra at the back of the neck) to the cuff. The shoulder sleeve length also includes the width of the sleeve edge. The long sleeves can be measured to the fingertips (if you take into account that the sleeve length of Hanfu is back to the elbow, you can make it longer). Unless you want to make a half-arm, the short sleeves are recommended to be as short as the middle of the forearm, because the length of Hanfu is the middle of the forearm. It is important not to show your hands. Although modern standards can be relaxed, it is not elegant if it is too short. Modern reference sizes (only to the junction of forearm and palm): S type 59CM, M type 61.5~63.5CM, L type 63~64CM, XL type 64.5CM.
Back length:
From the nape of the neck to the thinnest point of the waist. Modern reference sizes: S type 36.5~37.5CM, M type 38~39.5CM, L type 38~40CM, XL type 39CM.
Clothes length:
Measure from the back of the neck to below the waist, not to the widest part of the hips. You can also use the back length plus, generally add 5~14CM to the back length.
Sleeve edge width:
Customize according to personal preference. Generally speaking, narrow sleeves may have no edge, large sleeves must have edges, and middle sleeves may have no edge.
Collar width:
Customize according to personal preference. The width and width ratio should match the person's face shape and body shape, and should not be too exaggerated. For those who are thin, it is not advisable to make a collar that is too wide.
Cuff stop:
The seam allowance (also called seam allowance) is the amount of fabric used to join. If there is a sleeve edge, leave a 1CM opening. If there is no sleeve edge, leave 2~3CM.
Hem stop:
2~3CM.
Step 2: Open the grid and cut out a square piece of fabric or paper pattern).
The size of the grid is: length = 1/4 bust + shoulder sleeve length - sleeve edge width + cuff stop; width = (dress length + hem stop) × 2
After opening the grid, draw the following auxiliary lines on the fabric (paper pattern). The positions of the auxiliary lines
Description:
Rotator cuff line: It is the midpoint line (or fold line) between the front and back parts of the jacket
1/4 bust line: This line determines the position of the middle of the back
1/2 bust line: This line determines the width of the garment
Back length line: Determine the position of the waist
Bust line: This line passes through the chest but not through the breast point. It can indicate the depth of the armhole (the junction line between the sleeves and the body). The vertical distance from the rotator cuff line is: net bust/6+7CM
Step 3: Draw the line below the body and sleeves, the back center line, the neckline, and the left front placket line).
Armhole (junction line between sleeves and body): The intersection between the line below the sleeve and the body should be between the bust line and the back length line. If it is above the bust line, the armhole is too narrow. If it is between the back length line Down, the armholes are too wide. This line determines the shape of the sleeves. The picture is only for demonstration. As for whether it is narrow sleeves, large sleeves, pipa sleeves, or straight sleeves, the style chosen by the individual determines how to draw this line. Posterior midline: The line in the middle of the back.
Neckline: (as shown in the picture) AB length = back collar width + (collar edge width - N) + M, where back collar width = 1/4 neck circumference = net bust / 20 + 2.9CM; M is the distance between the collar edge and the neck Width, the larger M, the wider the necklineThe larger the When the width of the collar is increased, the collar edge stands up to cover the neck. However, AB length is less than 1/2 shoulder width (shoulder width is the length of the left and right acromion points, and must be measured through the back of the neck point). Back collar depth = 1/3 back collar width.
The intersection between the neckline and the back midline must be at a right angle, and then draw a smooth arc from point B to point C. Point C in the picture is any point on the left line between the bust line and the back length line, but the highest point cannot exceed the intersection point of the line under the sleeves and the body, and the lowest point should not be lower than the back length line. The curvature of the arc from point B to point C should not be too large, and the straight line from BC at the maximum curvature should not exceed 1~1.5CM. Pay attention to the entire line being smooth and smooth.
Left front line: Draw a vertical line from the BC arc to the hem line. The distance between the vertical line and the leftmost line is about 2~6CM (if the distance is too large, the seams on both sides will be stretched out of shape. If it is too small, , you cannot rely on the tie of the skirt to adjust the size of the neckline and the tightness of the body).
Step 4: Fold the fabric (paper pattern) in half along the shoulder and sleeve line, draw the seam (1CM) between the bottom of the sleeve and the body (as shown in (4)), and then cut out the bottom line of the sleeve and the body line
Step 5: Cut out the garment pieces. Open the folded fabric (paper pattern), draw the stop (1CM) of the back center line, neckline line and left front placket line, and then draw along theCut the outside of the seam line (as shown in Figure (5)). The arrow in the picture indicates the direction of the warp parallel to the edge of the fabric.
Step 6: Draw the second piece of clothing. Turn the fabric (paper pattern) in picture (5) over, cover it with another piece of fabric, and cut out the second piece of clothing according to the shape of this piece of clothing.
Step 7: Cut out the collar and sleeve edges. The length of the collar = the length of the neckline in Figure (3) × 2, and the width of the collar = (the width required for the finished style + the seam 1CM) × 2. The length of the sleeve edge = the length of the cuff + the stop 2CM, the width of the sleeve edge = (the width required for the finished style + the stop 1CM) × 2
The cutting of the jacket is completed.
2. How to cut skirt
The traditional skirt of Hanfu is an enclosed skirt, which is made up of several skirt pieces and connected to the waist. There are ties on both sides of the skirt waist.
The number of skirt pieces is not fixed, because in ancient times the cloth width was narrow. The more the number of skirt pieces, the wider the width of the skirt and skirt. There were only four skirt styles in the Han Dynasty, six in the Tang Dynasty, more than six in the Song Dynasty, and eight or ten skirts in the late Ming Dynasty. The width of modern fabrics can increase the area of skirts and reduce the number of skirts. The number of skirts of modern encircled skirts is generally 3 to 4. However, from the perspective of traditional inheritance, it is best to make Han-style skirts. Use the traditional number of skirt pieces, such as 6, 8, 10, 12 pieces, etc.
How to cut skirt pieces
The skirt cutting method introduced here is the cutting method (referring to modern cutting methods, non-traditional methods), which requires a paper pattern and cannot be cut directly from fabric.
Step 1: Master the following data before cutting:
Waist (or bust/bust), skirt, skirt length.
Waist (or bust/bust): Which one is required depends on the base style. The skirt can be worn in the following ways: top-chest, bottom-bust, and waist-cinching. The data of upper bust, lower bust and waist should be measured according to different wearing methods.
Skirt circumference: = waist circumference × 1.5~2 times + pleat amount + additional hem allowance on the left and right sides of the skirt (2~4CM). The multiple is determined by personal walking habits and the weight of the fabric. The bigger the steps when walking, the greater the multiple of the skirt. The drape of the fabric is better, and the heavier the feel, the multiple of the skirt can be slightly smaller, but NoIt can be less than 1.5 times, otherwise there is a risk of exposure. The amount of pleats determines the number and size of pleats on the skirt. Pleating methods include pleating, shirring, etc., which will not be described in detail here. However, it should be noted that the number and size of pleats should be determined according to the thickness of the fabric and the person's body shape. Because pleats will increase the volume of the upper part of the skirt, thick fabrics should not be made with too many pleats. People with plump body types should not make too many pleats. Be careful to only do an appropriate amount of pleats (an appropriate amount of pleats can conceal your body shape, but if the fabric is harder and the hem of the skirt is larger to create more waves, pleats are not required).
Skirt length: determined by style. However, the lower part of the skirt must reach the ankle. If the skirt is too short, it will be unsightly to expose the socks or calves.
Step 2: Open the grid and cut it. After opening the grid, draw vertical auxiliary lines on the paper pattern. There is no limit to the number of 2 or 4. It is best to draw auxiliary lines with symmetrical distances on both sides based on the center line of the grid.
Step 3: Place it. Cut along the auxiliary lines in the grid, leaving a strand at the top uncut, then cover it on another larger piece of paper, fix the middle piece with a pin or the like, and unfold the remaining pieces at the same distance. The greater the distance, the greater the curvature above the skirt, the larger the hem of the skirt, and the greater the waveiness of the hem. The amount of placement should also be determined based on the thickness and hardness of the fabric. The thicker the fabric, the harder it is, so the amount of placement should be appropriate, otherwise the lower part of the skirt will be too bulky.
Step 4: Along the outer edge of the paper pattern placed on the upper layer, draw the outline of the skirt on the lower layer of paper. Note that the arcs above and below the skirt must be drawn smoothly, and the four corners must be kept at right angles.
Step 5: Draw the seam of the skirt piece. The top and sides of the skirt piece are 1CM, and the hem is 2~3CM. Mark the warp direction lines and cut them out. The skirt pattern is completed. Generally speaking, the warp direction of the skirt is perpendicular to the ground. There are also practices where the warp direction is at an oblique angle to the ground. This approach can form softer waves, but it is not suitable for fabrics that are too easy to deform and fabrics that will damage the pattern. .
Step 6: Use the paper pattern to cut out the required number of skirt pieces on the fabric. After cutting, make sure to check it with the paper pattern again. Because the edge of the skirt is a diagonal line, it is easy to stretch and deform, so you need to check the original pattern again and cut off the part that has grown out due to stretching.
Step 7: Cut out the skirt waist. Skirt waist length = skirt circumference - pleat amount - added hem amount on the left and right sides of the skirt (2~4CM) + hem amount (2CM). The width of the skirt waist is customized. Note that when the width of the skirt waist increases to a certain amount, the skirt waist can also play the role of correcting the waist shape like a wide belt (it is best to use a fabric that is slightly lighter than the skirt and skirt). However, the width of the skirt waist should not be greater than the distance between the waist and the lowest part of the human chest ribs (unless it is a specially designed style).
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