This article is reproduced from [People's Daily Overseas Edition];
Eguan has a broad belt and a long ancient charm. During this year’s Qingming Festival, the first Flower Dynasty Hanfu Festival kicked off in Suzhou, Jiangsu. Hanfu enthusiasts in blue shirts and white coats with beautiful makeup walked in groups among the flowers, either heroic or delicate, Attracting the attention of tens of thousands of tourists.
The clothes are elegant and graceful, as if they are shocked. During the Spring Festival this year, a program called "Tang Palace Night Banquet" became popular online. In the show, actors wearing Tang suits and pink noodles fully displayed the culture of the prosperous times in their graceful dances, which also made Hanfu, a traditional costume, deeply rooted in the hearts of the people again.
Whether it is an offline gathering or an online performance, in recent years, more and more people have taken to the streets wearing Hanfu, and Hanfu has frequently entered the public eye, setting off a wave of craze in the whole society. What’s the reason behind the rise of “Hanfu craze”? How can we continue the popularity and bring Hanfu to thousands of households? A few days ago, reporters went into the Hanfu circle and tried to find answers from Hanfu enthusiasts, Hanfu merchants and industry experts.
○Hanfu ushered in a new wave of craze
Leading the fashion trend and releasing commercial potential
"3, 2, 1..." With a few countdowns, the ordinary young man's style changed and he transformed into a handsome man in a white robe and a handsome Chinese style.
The protagonist in the picture is Chu Qi, a Hanfu enthusiast. Over the past two years, with its exquisite ancient style and stunning contrast, it has quickly become popular on the Douyin short video platform, gaining nearly 7 million fans.
"Wearing Hanfu makes me more confident and allows more people to understand and like Hanfu." Chu Qi said. At the end of last year, he decided to become a short video blogger full-time. From a Hanfu enthusiast to a Hanfu promoter, he admitted that he would use his limited energy to do the most important thing, which is to promote Hanfu and inherit Chinese culture.
Led by Chu Qi and others, Hanfu is becoming a new fashion. Taking the Douyin platform as an example, as of now, the total number of video views on Hanfu topics has reached 48.23 billion times. In 2020, the number of views of Hanfu-related videos on Douyin increased by 292% compared with 2018.
Hanfu is becoming a trendWhile popular trends, it also releases huge business potential. According to e-commerce platform data, as of March 9, the number of searches for "Hanfu" on Taobao and Tmall this year has reached 530 million, with sales of nearly 2.8 billion yuan, including "post-85s", "post-90s" and "post-95s". "Later" has become the main force, accounting for nearly 70%.
Return to the Han and Tang brand stores is one of the best. Open the sales bill, which is a continuously rising curve. From annual sales of only about 200,000 yuan when it was founded in 2009 to over 100 million yuan in 2019, brand manager Lu Xiaowei believes that the reason behind the continued doubling of sales of Hanfu products is people's increasing recognition of Hanfu.
Around 2005, Lu Xiaowei and his team founded the Hanfu brand "Return to the Han and Tang Dynasties" and became the first batch of Hanfu design, production and sales entrepreneurs in Chengdu, Sichuan. "The development of Hanfu in recent years has exceeded our expectations." Along the way, Lu Xiaowei has witnessed the rise of Hanfu. In the early years, Hanfu was considered "fancy clothes" and was not accepted by people. After many years of unremitting promotion by Hanfu enthusiasts and Hanfu entrepreneurs opening up the situation in a commercial way, this round of "Hanfu craze" ushered in. ".
Relevant industry reports show that China’s Hanfu market sales reached 4.52 billion yuan in 2019, a year-on-year increase of 318.5%. According to industry insiders, China's Hanfu market will continue to grow in the next two to three years, and driven by the growth of new consumer groups, Hanfu's coverage of consumers is expected to further accelerate.
○What’s the reason for “Hanfu craze”?
The revival of traditional culture, the rise of short videos, and Hanfu enthusiasts continue to promote
Hanfu shows appeared in fashion weeks, and people wore Hanfu during festivals to enjoy lanterns, The special cultural week focuses on Hanfu... It not only leads the trend, but also enters thousands of households. What is behind the popularity of Hanfu?
"The craze for Hanfu is rooted in the renaissance of my country's traditional culture." Yang Na, executive director of the Clothing Professional Committee of the Chinese Association for the Promotion of Traditional Culture, believes that in recent years, China's comprehensive national strength has reached a new level and the economy has made great strides forward. Along the way, advocating Hanfu not only inherits and respects traditional culture, but also enhances national self-confidence and demonstrates greatness.A concrete manifestation of national cultural confidence. "Especially since the 18th National Congress of the Communist Party of China, the party and the country have attached great importance to the inheritance and development of China's excellent traditional culture, which has provided a good environment for the rise of Hanfu craze."
The development of mobile Internet, especially short videos The rise of the platform has helped the promotion of Hanfu enter the fast lane. "It can be said that this round of Hanfu craze is a product of the Internet." In Yang Na's view, from the initial website and Tieba to today's Weibo and short videos, with the help of multi-channel image dissemination, Hanfu can transcend time and space and connect with more people. broad group. “In recent years, more ordinary people have used short videos to share their experience of wearing Hanfu, which has accelerated the integration of Hanfu into daily life as a cultural symbol.”
In fact, the popularity of Hanfu is not a temporary success; The result of long-term efforts by the Hanfu community and enthusiasts. "Those young people who are actively promoting the revival of Hanfu, although not researchers in the professional field, have invested a lot of energy in advocating and becoming an important force in revitalizing Hanfu culture." said Chu Yan, associate professor at Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology. Lu Xiaowei, who has been deeply involved in the promotion of Hanfu for many years, told reporters that the Hanfu core circle has grown from a few dozen people at the beginning to more than 3 million people in more than a dozen important cities across the country. It is precisely because Hanfu enthusiasts have been taking root in traditional festivals for grassroots promotion for several years that the Hanfu circle continues to grow.
Not only enthusiasts, but entrepreneurs also play an indispensable role. "From design, production to sales, the improvement of the industrial chain truly makes Hanfu visible and tangible." Lu Xiaowei said that in the past, Hanfu was mainly customized, with low output, long cycle and high price, which seriously hindered the promotion of Hanfu. After opening up the upstream and downstream, Hanfu began to enter mass production and gradually became ready-to-wear. Not only did the production efficiency greatly improve, but the unit price also dropped significantly.
According to statistics from Hanfu Information, as of July 2020, there were a total of 1,476 merchants selling original designed Hanfu on Taobao, an increase of 45.77% compared to 2018. Compared with 7 in 2005, the number increased nearly 200 times in 2014. The explosive growth of Hanfu merchants has greatly ignited the enthusiasm for Hanfu consumption.
○How can Hanfu enter the homes of ordinary people?
Be honest and innovative, formulate relevant standards, and integrate into modern elementsSu
Born from the grassroots, but successfully broke through the circle with the efforts of many parties. In Yang Na’s view, the revival of Hanfu provides a development path that can be used as a reference for China’s excellent traditional culture to move into modern society.
After returning to the public eye, how to better fly into the homes of ordinary people is becoming a new question faced in the development process of Hanfu.
——Be honest and innovative, based on traditional culture, and create new Hanfu styles.
“Unlike fashion, adhering to the mission of reviving traditional culture, Hanfu design pays more attention to originality.” Hanfu designer Yuan Yi told reporters that the patterns and shapes of Hanfu are not simply aesthetic, but there is culture behind them. Meaning, they may come from murals in ancient tombs, or may be collected in museums, all of which have their own inheritance. Only by adhering to integrity and innovating can traditional culture be truly retained and spread.
Traditional Chinese costumes include stand-up collars with buckles, plain shirts and Zen clothes, as well as robes with wide belts and deep skirts. In Chu Yan's view, as a designer, you cannot simply imitate some superficial styles of clothing, but you must first go back to the fundamentals, start from traditional Chinese culture, and have an in-depth understanding of how to use traditional weaving, dyeing, embroidery and sewing techniques, and master rich The meaning of the pattern, on this basis, is combined with modern people's lifestyle and clothing concepts to create new Chinese styles and reproduce cultural heritage.
——Standards come first, and multiple parties work together to standardize the shape, production and wearing method of Hanfu.
“The lack of industry standards is the biggest dilemma currently facing the promotion of Hanfu.” Yang Na said. What exactly is Hanfu? How to design standard Hanfu? There has been no consensus on these issues for a long time. "Nowadays, some Hanfu that are promoted voluntarily by the private sector, due to the lack of unified design standards, work independently and have relatively limited impact. They need to be promoted at the national level to promote the long-term development of Hanfu." Yang Na said.
Some people in the industry believe that the specifications of Hanfu include specifications for shape, production and wearing methods. Experts and scholars in history, aesthetics and clothing industry should give full play to the role of experts and scholars in the history, aesthetics and clothing industry to formulate relevant standards as soon as possible. This will not only facilitate the labeling of Hanfu Its historical and cultural value can also help the Hanfu industry get on the right track.
"With the rise of China's national power, the return of Hanfu culture will be inevitable" "Hanfu is a beautiful thing and must have the value of dissemination" "The continuous participation of young people is injecting a steady stream of energy into the promotion of Hanfu. Vitality"... In the interview, all Hanfu enthusiasts, practitioners and experts are confident in the future of Hanfu, and are actively promoting Hanfu.
After transforming into a full-time self-media blogger, Chu Qi is planning to develop medium and long videos. “Short videos give everyone a rough and intuitive experience of Hanfu. Medium and long videos will add explanations and analysis to help everyone learn more about Hanfu.” To better understand the deep historical context and give cultural significance to the beauty of Hanfu. ”
Having been deeply involved in Hanfu design for many years, Yuan Yi began to try to incorporate modern elements into Hanfu, and combined with fashion design on the basis of respecting traditional shapes. Integrated to make it more suitable for daily life and in line withThe modern oriental aesthetic has truly become a daily wear option in people's wardrobes.