[Quju] is a style of Hanfu. In ancient times, there were twelve pieces of deep clothing, all with the broad head at the bottom and the narrow head at the top, commonly known as gussets. The ones that follow the gussets and hook the sides are called "curved gussets".
Quju
[Quju deep clothing] is a kind of Hanfu deep clothing, which was a common dress in the Qin and Han Dynasties. Shenyi can be divided into straight and curved trains according to whether the train is wrapped around the skirt or not. The skirt of the deep-curved garment is extended at the back, and the lengthened skirt forms a triangle, which passes through the back and then wraps around the front. A large belt is then tied around the waist to cover the ends of the triangular pleat. Dark clothes with curved trains were more popular from the pre-Qin to Han dynasties when the hakama was not invented. Can be worn by both men and women. Quju has been retained as women's clothing for a relatively long time. From the end of the Eastern Han Dynasty to the Wei and Jin Dynasties, women's deep attire declined, the rut skirt began to rise, and the crotch skirt naturally almost disappeared. Later in the long history, the most popular women's clothing was the skirt.
Quju deep clothes
【Ruqun】A traditional costume of ancient Chinese people. It is also one of the earliest and most basic clothing forms in the history of Chinese clothing.
Skirt
[Chest-length underskirt] is the name given to a unique women's underskirt during the Sui, Tang and Five Dynasties periods. During the Sui, Tang and Five Dynasties, a very high skirt with a waistband appeared, generally called a chest-length skirt. Chest-length skirts were first seen in the Southern and Northern Dynasties. They faded out of history after the Sui, Tang and Five Dynasties. They have a history of about 1,000 years.
Chest-length underskirt
[Double-breasted skirt] is a type of skirt with a straight collar and a symmetrical skirt, so it is called a double-breasted skirt. During the Wei and Jin Dynasties, the waist of the skirt was high, the top was short, and the sleeves were narrow; later it went to the other extreme, and the sleeves were widened to two or three feet. In the Sui Dynasty, small sleeves became fashionable again. In the early Tang Dynasty, short-sleeved jackets and floor-length skirts were worn. However, after the Tang Dynasty, aristocratic women's clothing turned to wide and long skirts. The pattern of the skirt is made of four connected pieces, narrow at the top and wide at the bottom, hanging down to the ground without any edges. The waist of the skirt is made of silk strips, and the two ends are sewn with ties. Korean women's traditional skirt suit, the upper skirt is a short jacket with small lantern sleeves and a diagonal breast, tied with a flower loop belt; the lower skirt is a high-waisted long skirt, which is worn by girls in a full-skirt style or wrapped in a skirt after marriage.
Double-breasted skirt
[Cross-collar underskirt] is one type, which is characterized by the cross-collar upper skirt. Cross-collar underskirtIt was quite common in the Song Dynasty. According to style, it can be roughly divided into Tang-style cross-collar skirts, Song-style cross-neck skirts, Ming-style cross-neck skirts, etc. Compared with other clothing shapes, the underskirt has an obvious feature: the top is short and the bottom skirt is long. The upper and lower proportions reflect the requirements of the golden section and have rich aesthetic connotations. They have a common feature: flat cutting, multiple edges, and ribbons; the changes in the upper jacket are mainly in the collar shape and placket, and the lower skirt is as long as the shoe upper. Generally speaking, if the dress is short, the skirt will be long, and if the dress is short, it will reach the waist, and if the skirt is long, it will be below the ankle bone; if the dress is long, the skirt will be wide, and when the dress is long, it will be from the hip to below the knee, and the skirt will reveal only a few inches, so the skirt does not need to show any features.
Cross-collar underskirt
[Coat skirt] refers to the skirt with the top outside the skirt. "Coat skirt" is a general name for women's clothing in the Ming Dynasty. Women's coats made in the Ming Dynasty are more distinctive. Most of the coats have Pipa sleeves with closed cuffs. The cuffs can have edges and the collars have a collar. The lower skirt is usually paired with a horse-face pleated skirt or an ordinary pleated skirt. Women's coats come in long or short lengths, with crossed collars, vertical collars, square collars, double lapels, etc. In addition, women's jackets in the Ming Dynasty also had straight sleeves and arrow sleeves like men's jackets.
Jacket skirt
【褙子】褙子, also known as Beizi and Chuozi, is an embroidered embroidery that was founded in the Qin Dynasty. It is a common dress for women from the Qin Dynasty to the Ming Dynasty. The style is mainly straight collar and front, with open hips at the armpits, tied with silk at the waist, and length below the knees. It gradually became a common dress for women in later generations. In the Song Dynasty, men's bras were often worn under official uniforms and rarely worn outside. Women's turban is worn outside and has become a typical style of everyday clothing. The beauties of the Song Dynasty had long sleeves, long body, and armpits.Lower crotch, that is, the front and back of the clothes are not sewn, but are decorated with straps at the armpits and back. The double straps hanging under the armpits are used for decoration, imitating the cross-belt form of ancient Chinese singles (underwear), which means "preserving the old and retaining the old". When wearing the trousers, tie them with silk at the waist.
褙子
[Myrobalan] is also known as "stocking breasts", "襕 skirt", "Albizia wolfberry skirt", "tube top", etc. Women's corsets in Han costumes are tied from the back to the front, with threads underneath, which can be tied around the waist of the skirt at the same time. Myrobalan is one of ancient Chinese women's underwear, popular in the Tang Dynasty, Song Dynasty, and Ming Dynasty. Before the Tang Dynasty, underwear had straps on the shoulders. In the Tang Dynasty, a strapless underwear called "myrobalan" appeared. The commonly used fabrics of "Myrobalan" are: "woven", which is stiff and slightly elastic, and feels thick. When wearing it, just tie two straps under the chest. The "weaving" ensures that the upper part of the chest of "Myrobalan" can achieve a straight effect.
Myrobalan
[Luo shirt] A shirt made of gauze as light as foggy valleys and as thin as cicada wings. It is a more close-fitting style of shirt, with wide and narrow sleeves, a cross collar or a straight collar, knee length, and armpit slits. It is shorter and closer to the body than a large shirt, and is suitable for ladies.
Luo Shan
[Half-arm] Also known as half-sleeve, it is shaped like a blouse with the long sleeves removed, resulting in a wide-mouthed, short-sleeved tuck. Its shape is as long as the shirt. During the Sui and Tang dynasties, the half-arm styles had folded lapels, pullovers, lapels or no collars. The sleeves were as long as the elbows, the body was as long as the waist, and a small belt was used as a chest knot. Because of the wide neckline, the upper chest is exposed when worn. Wear it mostly outside the shirt.
Half arm
[Top top and lower skirt] is one of the earliest clothing forms in China and the first style of the Hanfu system. The clothing form of upper and lower garments has already been formed in the Shang Dynasty. During the Shang Dynasty, the upper garments were divided into regular clothes and formal clothes. During the Western Zhou Dynasty, upper garments and lower garments were still the mainstream clothing. The style of clothes remains the same, but gradually becomes wider, and the sleeves become larger and larger, forming a style with large sleeves and removed laces. During the Spring and Autumn Period and the Warring States Period, regular clothes and gowns were still made of tops and lower skirts, and became increasingly sophisticated. The large sleeves are only used for dresses at this time.
Top and bottoms
【Bunt】also known as "vertical brown" and "苋Brown". The three characters "short", "vertical" and "裋" have the same pronunciation and are all pronounced as "shù". "short" pass"苋", "苋" means "vertical cut", which is a uniformly cut top. "苋" also means a boy servant, so "vertical brown" is also called a boy servant's clothes. Therefore, the original meaning of short brown is made of coarse linen or animal hair. A woven coarse cloth top. Short brown is also extended to the working clothes and casual clothes of the poor and servants (including tops and trousers). In summary, short brown is men's clothing with a top and trousers made of coarse cloth. The length of the top is generally between the hips and Up and down the knees.
Bunt
[Confucian clothing] refers to the traditional Confucian clothing from the Zhou Dynasty to the Ming Dynasty. Confucian scholars wear dark clothes and Zhangfu crowns. The State of Lu was the birthplace of Confucianism and had many Confucian scholars. All people in Lu wear Confucian clothes.
Confucian clothing
[Taoist robe] was popular in the Ming Dynasty. It was the outer garment worn by Confucian scholars at home. It could also be used as a lining robe or as a wedding dress for civilian men. The Taoist robe has a folded collar on the right side, slits on both sides, and a hidden hem. It is tied with a tie. The collar is often decorated with a white or plain collar. The sleeves are wide Pipa sleeves. It can be worn with silk sash, thin cloth belt or large belt.
Taoist robe
[Zhicheng] A kind of clothing that has been around since the Song Dynasty. During the Song and Song Dynasties, most Zhiqi were worn by monks. During the Ming Dynasty, the style of Zhicheng changed and became popular among literati and scholar-bureaucrats.
Zhicheng
[Crane Cloak] Also called "immortal Taoist priest's clothing", it is a long coat such as a cloak or cloak to keep out the cold. After the crane cloak was accepted by scholar-bureaucrats, it took the form of a straight-collar blouse with large sleeves and slits on both sides, with no edges and a belt in the middle. The crane cloak of the Ming Dynasty is similar in shape to the cloak, except that it has more edges, the collar is more integrated, and the sleeves are wider than the mantle.
Crane cloak
[Big cloak] Also known as cloak, it evolved from the Taoist crane cloak. It is only worn by men. It is characterized by its big sleeves, wide overall and laces. It is only worn as regular clothes.
Great cloak
[Round-neck robe] A type of Han clothing that appeared in the early years of the Han Dynasty. It existed as underwear in the early days. After the Wei, Jin, Southern and Northern Dynasties, it began to be worn as formal wear and became popular from the Sui and Tang Dynasties to the late Ming Dynasty. The round neck is also called the group collar, which is actually a collarless collar. There are four types of collars for round-neck robes: no collar, slight stand-up collar, wide collar, and stand-up collar. The round-neck robe is a robe with a round collar and narrow sleeves. It is a national costume of the Han people after the Sui and Tang Dynasties. Men's round-neck robes are mostly solid colors without patterns. Women's round-neck robes are brightly colored and often have patterns. The round-neck robe originally had straight or arrow sleeves and was worn as regular wear. In the Song and Ming Dynasties, it developed into a formal dress, and officials also wore more of it. The shape has also developed into large sleeves, with Puzi or various mang, unicorn and other patterns.
Round neck robe