The progress of Hanfu from revival to everyday wear

The progress of Hanfu from revival to everyday wear

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01. The “Hanfu” of the old days is now fresh

Recently, Hanfu Chinese style brand "Shisanyu", led by Zhengxingu and Bilibili, with participation from Bubble Mart, completed a Series A financing of over 100 million yuan, bringing Hanfu, a niche track, into the capital market view. Public information shows that Hangzhou Dazai Culture Co., Ltd., to which Shisanyu belongs, was established less than three years ago. Its main products are original Hanfu, national style clothing, etc.

"Hanfu" means Han Chinese clothing and is a concept of Chinese dynasty clothing or a general term for ancient Chinese clothing (from Wikipedia). This term can be traced back to the "Book of Han Dynasty" "Several greetings, happy Han clothes system". Academically speaking, there is no precise definition of "Hanfu". Professor Yuan Qi from the Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology pointed out that the concept of Hanfu is not certain and is not a certain form of clothing from a certain dynasty.

It is hard to imagine that although our country has a huge Han population, "Hanfu" was still an extremely niche cultural circle more than ten years ago. At that time, a group of Internet users who wanted to "revitalize Chinese culture" gathered on an Internet platform called "Hanwang" and issued a call for "Chinese rejuvenation, clothing first." When these people try to take to the streets wearing homemade Hanfu to promote, the reactions of passers-by are usually curiosity, surprise, confusion and even ridicule.

The revival of this kind of clothing was born with the revival movement of traditional Chinese cultural thought. It accumulated strength in the waves of Chinese studies and traditional culture. With the support of many factors, it ushered in an explosive period of "circle expansion". This is inseparable from the efforts of a group of early Hanfu merchants. The Hanfu brand "Return to the Han and Tang Dynasties" has been established for nearly 15 years. The founder, Lu Xiaowei, was also one of the witnesses of the Hanwang movement. After customizing the first set of Hanfu "patterned" based on film and television scenes, Business opportunities were keenly discovered.

The popularity of e-commerce platforms has strongly contributed to the "blowout" of supply and demand in the Hanfu market. iiMedia Research data shows that from 2017 to 2019, the number of Hanfu fans has maintained a growth rate of more than 70% for three consecutive years. As of the end of 2018, "Return to the Han and Tang Dynasties" had only 13 physical stores. In the first quarter of 2019, the total sales of Tmall flagship stores and physical stores equaled that of the whole year of last year. In this year, the entire market sales reachedto 4.52 billion yuan, a year-on-year increase of 318.5%.

In 2020, Hanfu clothing has also become a new market with sales exceeding 10 billion on Taobao. More than thirteen people who were incubated and listed this time were the sales champions of Hanfu that year. In the official Taobao store of Shisanyu, the monthly sales number one is the joint model "Yao Meets the Divine Deer" spring and summer dress with King of Glory (monthly sales of 10,000+). The dress is priced at 319 yuan, with a bow tie. Accessories are 49 yuan, and the pre-order batch has reached the 14th batch. Related to factors such as style and season, this price is considered a relatively affordable suit among Shisanyu stores. In terms of the price positioning of the entire Shisanyu brand in the Taobao Hanfu market, considering the founder Xiao Doukouer's "circle star" Effect", some netizens defined it as "light luxury in the Hanfu industry".

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Of course, there are also original brands with higher prices, such as Minghuatang, Hanke Silk Road, Shili Mingzhu, etc. Most of the related products are formal dresses rather than daily wear. Take Hanke Silk Road as an example. Currently, the most expensive "dragon robe" in this Taobao store is sold for 11,800 yuan.

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Nowadays, when opening various social media and short video websites, Hanfu-related content is becoming more and more common, and the number of producers and audiences is also increasing day by day. The founder of Shisanyu, Xiaodoukouer, is also the creative UP master of Guofeng District with millions of fans at Station B. In addition, taking Sina Weibo as an example, as of the time of publication, Hanfu Chaohua has gathered 505,000 fans, 111,000 related posts, and 2.5 billion views, ranking first among trendy Chaohua. In fact, as long as you pay a little attention, you can see more and more young people wearing Hanfu and taking pictures in the street in daily life., especially in some historical and cultural scenic spots or natural scenic spots, the probability of occurrence will skyrocket.

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Regardless of whether one personally agrees with it or not, the fact is that the public acceptance of Hanfu has reached a record high, and Hanfu craze has become widely popular among young people.

02. Behind the persistence: it is love and inheritance

As one of the "three traps" of young people's clothing, Hanfu carries the beautiful memories of many enthusiasts. This week, Laika Think Tank interviewed two Hanfu enthusiasts with more than 5 years of experience, taking us to explore the Hanfu circle and the demand side of the Hanfu market.

1. Interviewee Awen (24 years old) prefers daily style and also likes to wear beautiful Hanfu to check in and take photos

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(Photo courtesy of interviewee)

I got into Hanfu when I was a senior in high school. At that time, I liked Xia Da's ancient comics. When I saw her wearing Hanfu, I thought it was very beautiful. At the same time, I also understood that this is the traditional costume of our own nation. In my freshman year, I joined the Hanfu Club and participated in activities such as the Mid-Autumn Festival to worship the moon and the Flower Festival to worship the flower gods. I really like this traditional culture.

I usually like Hanfu made in the Ming Dynasty and Song Dynasty, because it is more everyday, can be worn out, and can be mixed and matched with ordinary clothes. My favorite brands include Return to the Han and Tang Dynasties, Zhong Ling Ji, Hua Chao Ji, Lan Ruoting, etc., generally Just buy it on Taobao and check it out on Xianyu. I usually communicate on Tieba, and have also joined some Hanfu community groups. I also follow the Weibo posts of some Hanfu models and the UP main channel of Station B on Hanfu dressing, makeup and photography, which has taught me a lot.

I think the development of HanfuWe need to inherit tradition but also innovate to keep up with modern trends. After all, Hanfu has been developing and changing throughout history. In addition to traditional Hanfu, there are also some Hanfu clothes launched by some merchants, such as Hanfu made of sweater fabrics, which are more suitable for daily life and are more acceptable. I am willing to buy them. . However, when I buy and wear Hanfu myself, I will research whether the shape is correct. For example, I will check if there are any historical materials with pictures of cultural relics that I can refer to. If the shape is incorrect, I will not buy it.

2. Interviewee Lin founded the Hanfu club on campus and actively promoted Hanfu

Since I was a child, I like to wear quilts and imitate the costumes of characters in costume dramas. When I graduated from high school in 2014, I saw a promotional video of Hanfu. At that time, Hanfu was not as popular as it is now. We can easily know the traditions of Tibetan and Mongolian people. Clothing, but not many people even know about Hanfu, which makes me feel very sad. So after I was a freshman, I wore Hanfu every day, and I founded the school’s Hanfu club with two senior students. I hope that by wearing Hanfu myself and organizing activities in the club, more people can understand the existence and connotation of Hanfu.

What kind of clothes I like to wear is related to my mood. The Song Dynasty and Ming Dynasty skirts are dignified and easy to wear, suitable for daily use. The Tang Dynasty skirts are very gorgeous, but the Tang skirts are easy to fall off when worn, which is a bit restrictive for daily wear. Return to the Han and Tang Dynasties, Han Shang Hualian, Hua Chao Ji, Lan Ruoting, and Zhuyan are my favorite brands, and they are all relatively affordable.

When I was in school, I mainly used WeChat and QQ to communicate with my classmates. The well-known figures in the Hanfu circle that I follow include Xuanji and Qin Yawen, senior figures in the revival of Hanfu, as well as promoters of Hanfu culture like Bloom, who organize Hanfu Spring Festival Gala and other events. I have participated in offline events organized by her in Beijing, and at the same time There are also special figures like Xu Jiao and Fang Wenshan who are in the entertainment industry and promote the revival of Hanfu. For example, Fang Wenshan is the founder of the Xitang Hanfu Culture Festival.

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(Photo from Xitang Hanfu Culture Festival, picture