The underskirt has been the most basic form of Han traditional clothing since the Warring States Period with physical evidence, and finally in the "shaving of hair and changing clothes" in the late Ming and early Qing Dynasties. Over the past 2,000 years, although the length and width have changed from time to time, the basic shape has always maintained the original style, which consists of a short top and a long skirt, that is, a suit with an upper skirt and a lower skirt.
The editor will share with you some cutting and making methods for underskirts. I hope it will be helpful to everyone.
This is the basic way to cut a skirt. The undershirt is a fitted cross-collar short undershirt. The width is based on a person's bust size. The length only exceeds the waist and does not reach the hips (if the length reaches the hips or exceeds the hips, the hem needs to be Widen it into an arc shape, so it is no longer the square hem in Figure (1). Of course, you can continue to use this cutting method, but the width must be based on the hip size, so that when the undershirt is tucked into the skirt, the upper body There will be too much excess fabric), and the skirt is an encircled half-length skirt.
1. Judgment method of Ru
There are two common methods of cutting the collar. Because of the overlapping collar, part of the fabric will overlap on the front, making it difficult to satisfy one piece of fabric.
The requirements for the amount of fabric on the front placket, therefore, these two common cutting methods are composed of two pieces of cloth to form a jacket. One is the middle-back split method (as shown in Figure (1)), where the suture line of the two pieces of cloth is in the middle of the back. In ancient paintings, it is common to see an obvious line in the middle of the back of people's clothes. This cutting method must be used; the other is the front patchwork method, that is, the suture line of the two pieces of cloth is on the right front. The purpose of this cutting method is The advantage is that the stitching area is covered by the left lapel and cannot be seen on the surface of the clothing. In addition to these two methods, there is another cutting method that adjusts the slope of the shoulder and sleeve parts to meet the required amount of fabric for the overlapping part of the front. Only one piece of fabric is enough, and there is no need to cut it separately, but because I am not very good at it, Knowing this method, I won’t go into details.
Step 1: Before cutting, you must first master the following data: chest circumference, shoulder and sleeve length, back length, dress length, sleeve edge width, collar edge width, cuff stop, clothing hem stop, etc.
Bust: refers to the bust of clothing rather than the bust of the human body. It is equal to the human body's net bust + clothing looseness. Put the soft ruler horizontally through the breast point to measure the net bust circumference of the human body (note that the soft tape should be moderately tight). The looseness of the clothes is determined by your own preferences. Generally speaking, the looseness of 4CM~6CM is a tight-fitting type (suitable for a tight-fitting middle coat or a jacket worn alone), 8-10CM is a fitted type (can be worn alone or with one or two pieces of clothing added inside), and 14CM or above is considered a loose type. But this is for fabrics of general thickness. If it is a thicker winter fabric or the inside is going to be quilted, the looseness should be increased depending on the thickness of the fabric based on each type. If it is not convenient to measure, you can refer to the net bust size of modern adult women: S type 76CM, M type 82CM, L type 88CM, XL type 96CM.
Rotator cuff length: Measure from the bulging cervical vertebra at the back of the neck (also called the nape of the neck) to the desired position of the sleeve on your arm. The shoulder sleeve length also includes the width of the sleeve edge. The long sleeves can be measured to the fingertips (if you take into account that the sleeve length of Hanfu is back to the elbow, you can make it longer). Unless you want to make a half-arm, the short sleeves are recommended to be as short as the middle of the forearm, because the length of Hanfu is the middle of the forearm. It is important not to show your hands. Although modern standards can be relaxed, it is not elegant if it is too short. Modern reference sizes (only to the junction of forearm and palm): S type 59CM, M type 61.5~63.5CM, L type 63~64CM, XL type 64.5CM.
Back length: measured from the back of the neck to the thinnest point of the waist. Modern reference sizes: S type 36.5~37.5CM, M type 38~39.5CM, L type 38~40CM, XL type 39CM.
Clothes length: You can measure directly from the back of the neck to the desired position below the waist, but not to the widest part of the hips (because this is a short jacket). If you don’t want to measure, you can also use the back length plus. Generally, the back length plus 5~14CM is fine.
Sleeve edge width: customized according to personal preference. As for whether sleeve edges are required, generally speaking, narrow sleeves can have no edges, large sleeves must have edges, and medium sleeves have no edges.
Collar width: customized according to personal preference. But pay attention to the width and width ratio to match the person's face shape and body shape, and not to be too exaggerated. For those who are thin, it is not advisable to make a collar that is too wide.
Cuff stop: The stop (also called seam allowance) is the amount of fabric used to join. If there is a sleeve edge, leave a 1CM opening. If there is no sleeve edge, leave 2~3CM.
Hem stop: 2~3CM.
Step 2: Open the grid and cut out a square piece of fabric or paper pattern). If it is a fabric that is not easily deformed, such as cotton, wool, etc., you can work directly on the fabric. If it is a fabric that is easily deformed, such as chiffon, silk, etc., it is best to make a paper pattern first. The size of the grid is: length = 1/4 bust + shoulder and sleeve length - sleeve edge width + cuff stop; width = (dress length + hem stop) × 2.
After gridding, draw the following auxiliary lines on the fabric (paper pattern). The positions of the auxiliary lines are as shown in Figure (2), and the instructions are as follows:
Rotator cuff line: It is the midpoint line (or fold line) between the front and back parts of the jacket
1/4 bust line: This line determines the position of the center of the back
1/2 bust line: This line determines the width of the garment
Back length line: Determine the position of the waist
Bust line: This line passes through the chest but not through the breast point. It can indicate the depth of the armhole (the junction line between the sleeves and the body). The vertical distance from the rotator cuff line is: net bust/6+7CM.
Step 3: Draw the line below the body and sleeves, the back center line, the neckline, and the left front placket line).
The line below the body and sleeves: as shown in the picture. The junction of the line below the sleeves and the body should be between the bust line and the back length line. If it is above the bust line, the armhole is too narrow. If it is below the back length line, the armhole is too wide. This line determines the shape of the sleeves. The picture is only for demonstration. As for whether it is narrow sleeves, large sleeves, pipa sleeves, straight sleeves, etc., the style chosen by the individual determines how to draw this line. It should be noted that the lower part of the cuff is preferably at a right angle to facilitate the splicing of the front and back parts of the sleeve.
Posterior midline: The line in the middle of the back. Just change the auxiliary line in Figure 2 to a solid line.
Neckline: Draw as shown. AB length = back collar width + (collar edge width - N) + M, where back collar width = 1/4 neck circumference = net bust / 20 + 2.9CM; M is the width of the collar edge from the neck. The larger M, the narrower the collar. Large; the size of N is 0CM ~ the width of the collar edge. Under the premise that M is 0, it determines the angle of the collar edge. Theoretically, when N is 0, the collar edge just reaches the side of the neck. When N is equal to the collar edge When the width is 1, the collar edge will stand up to cover the neck. However, AB length<1/2Large shoulder width (large shoulder width is the length of the left and right acromion points, measured through the back of the neck point). Back collar depth = 1/3 back collar width.
The intersection between the neckline and the back midline must be at a right angle, and then draw a smooth arc from point B to point C. Point C in the picture is any point on the left line between the bust line and the back length line, but the highest point cannot exceed the intersection point of the line under the sleeves and the body, and the lowest point should not be lower than the back length line. The curvature of the arc from point B to point C should not be too large, and the straight line from BC at the maximum curvature should not exceed 1~1.5CM. Pay attention to the entire line being smooth and smooth.
Left front line: Draw a vertical line from the BC arc to the hem line. The distance between the vertical line and the leftmost line is about 2~6CM (if the distance is too large, the seams on both sides will be stretched out of shape. If it is too small, , you cannot rely on the tie of the skirt to adjust the size of the neckline and the tightness of the body).
Step 4: Fold the fabric (paper pattern) in half along the shoulder and sleeve line, draw the seam (1CM) between the bottom of the sleeve and the body (as shown in (4)), and then cut out the bottom line of the sleeve and the body line
Step 5: Cut out the garment pieces. Open the folded fabric (paper pattern), draw the seam (1CM) of the back center line, neckline line and left front placket line, and then cut along the outside of the seam line (as shown in Figure (5)). The arrow in the picture indicates that it is parallel to the edge of the fabric warp direction.
Step 6: Draw the second piece of clothing. Turn the fabric (paper pattern) in picture (5) over, cover it with another piece of fabric, and cut out the second piece of clothing according to the shape of this piece of clothing.
Step 7: Cut out the collar and sleeve edges.The length of the collar = the length of the neckline in Figure (3) × 2, and the width of the collar = (the width required for the finished style + the seam 1CM) × 2. The length of the sleeve edge = the length of the cuff + the stop 2CM, the width of the sleeve edge = (the width required for the finished style + the stop 1CM) × 2
The cutting of the jacket is completed.