The China Grand Canal Museum will hold an International Museum Day theme event on May 18. "Emperor Yang of the Sui Dynasty" and other "ancient figures" will make a stunning appearance wearing restored Hanfu. The Hanfu worn by "Emperor Yang of the Sui Dynasty" was restored and made by a Nanjing girl Zhang Zening based on historical data. In eight years, Zhang Zening visited museums in more than ten cities in China and turned the graphic costumes in the murals into reality.
Amidst the intensive sound of sewing machines in the studio, the reporter met Zhang Zening. Dressed in plain clothes, she looks like a woman stepping out of an ancient painting. The nearly rough studio has bookshelves filled with collections of paintings, including Yongle Palace murals and clothing patterns, the complete collection of Dunhuang murals, Fahai Temple murals and clothing materials, etc.; the table is covered with Zhang Zening's hand-drawn manuscripts.
The set of Hanfu in front of me is the first one restored by Zhang Zening. It is inspired by the jade girl holding a golden furnace in the mural of Yongle Palace. The half arm is printed with a complete tortoise shell pattern, and the belt is decorated with a jade grid belt. Zhang Zening said that this set of Hanfu inspired her confidence in restoring Hanfu: "I had a customer give me feedback. She said that she wore this set of Hanfu for a lady holding incense and went to see Yongle Palace and took photos and sent them to me. Because Yongle Palace The ticket is for the lady holding incense. Look at the ticket, I’m wearing the same style as her, I think it’s really good.”
She is engaged in material research and loves traditional culture very much, especially Hanfu. She often organizes various Hanfu activities in her spare time. In 2015, Zhang Zening went to Dunhuang and was attracted by the exquisite costumes on the murals. He hoped to restore them and show them to the world.
In 2015, with the encouragement of his lover, Zhang Zening set up his own studio and concentrated on research on the restoration of Hanfu. Visiting museums, reading picture albums, studying patterns, looking for fabrics, printing and embroidering by herself have become her daily life.
Zhang Zening told reporters that it was indeed difficult to make the first set. Fortunately, the rigor and academic research experience of engineering students helped her overcome the difficulties: "For example, when we were making murals, because it was a flat surface, some clothes We don’t know the structure very well. For example, when I first made the mural of Yongle Palace in 2017, I couldn’t see the back of it. Later, when I made the Pingyang Mansion Chaoyuan Painting, it was only last year that I saw the real clothes behind it. What the structure should look like sometimes.If you check the information first and then do it, it will feel like you are doing a paper. ”
Hanfu restoration is a relatively niche type in the Hanfu cultural circle. During the restoration process, Zhang Zening discovered that the hairstyles and hair accessories of the characters in the murals were also very special. But because the time is so long, there is no similar reference, so we need to search for a lot of information: "There is a Liyang Museum near us, which has a set of silver crowns for women in the Song Dynasty. I found this out by reading a document. If we If I don't go there, many people may not know it. But if I restore it, everyone will know that it turned out that the Song Dynasty hair ornaments were such a beautiful hairstyle. What else do I want to use to restore it? Use 3D printing, or use metal to knock gold and make it.”
In the past ten years, Zhang Zening has traveled to more than ten cities, repeatedly visited murals, looked up information, and restored more than 50 sets of Hanfu from different dynasties. Based on cultural relics and documents such as Yongle Palace murals, Dunhuang murals, and Tang Bohu's Lady Pictures, we have launched the restoration of Furong by Zhang Niangzi in Cave 61 of the Mogao Grottoes in Dunhuang, and the "Yinhe" restored by Tang Bohu's Wangshu Palace Actors. work. Different works have different materials: "We will use some silk-like satin fabrics to make them. Like the complete set of clothes just now, we use silk cotton for the innermost layer. The fabric that fits the body is the most comfortable. Then for the outer part, we take into account its elegance and make the skirt a little lighter. Then if we make a skirt, the whole thing should be thicker. ”p>
Currently, Zhang Zening's restored Hanfu is sold across the country and even around the world every month, and her studio's income has gradually stabilized. Only making customized Hanfu will not face the risk of stocking up, but it also determines that the scale and profit margin are not large. However, Zhang Zening said that he will stick to this love: "When we restore Hanfu, we want to integrate the history and culture into one of our Hanfu. Then let young people wear the restored Hanfu to walk on the street, just like Like walking history”
Jiangsu News Broadcasting Xu Renfei Jinjing Liang Zhenhua
Source: Jiangsu News Broadcasting
